It begins with the protagonist, Shiro, recalling his childhood dream before a friend's funeral, which he defiantly bombs in casual wear. He is approaching middle age, has outgrown(or superficially given up on) his dreams and expresses how "useless" he finds everything through his actions. It is when strolling through a red light district that he finds what he is looking for: someone who believes in something greater than themselves, the street preacher Riquinni, and this seemingly inconsequential meeting sets the entire plot in motion.
What to say, astounding world design, great stills and animation alike, a haunting soundtrack and a profound touch elevate this into a league of its own. It is best understood as film, presented in animated form.
Two problems seem to mar people's ability to appreciate it.
1) The slowness of the plot
At 2 hours long, this is a very slow-burn movie, yet every scene has purpose. Looking and find the purpose of each scene is a deeply cerebral activity, a lot if spelled out, but a lot more is to find in gestures, looks and circumstances. Still, claiming it is slow or boring is claiming that Tarkovsky's Stalker is slow or boring. Or Blade Runner. This movie needs two hours to expouse the depth of an entire civilization paralleling our own, it couldn't do it in any other way. There's plenty of action elsewhere, and plots designed to entertain. This one is designed to have actual meaning and depth.
2) The "controversial" scene.
For a lot, certain topics are so political and morally charged, they become unbearable to watch or understand in context. Since a lot of the relationship between Shiro and Riquinni are portrayed through looks and gestures, it's easy to miss what's going on. (This implicit, unspoken way to conduct relationships is very Japanese, i discovered.)
SPOILERS about the scene:
Shiro is courting Riquinni, but Riquinni, being deeply religious and living through difficult circumstances ignores Shiro's physical advances, without pushing him away all together. Shiro is visually frustrated with this, he is neither rejected nor accepted and is in a limbo of emotion. He ends up misguidedly pushing her down, intending to "win" against her resistance, but is quickly stopped. No "rape" occurs.
What seems to trouble many is that this gesture is forgiven by Riquinni, entirely forgetting her very accepting and forgiving character. When her house is bulldozed without warning, she isn't angry for a moment, accepting it instead. Likewise, when Shiro tramples over her feelings and tries to force her into something sexual, she ends up apologizing to him next morning for hitting him. Her purity and belief in Shiro are due to her faith. She refuses to believe that Shiro is a bad person. Instead of judging him, she judges herself and her lack of trust in him. Shiro has obviously made a mistake, but she is willing to forgive him to stay true to her beliefs of non-violence, forgiveness and love between people, as everyone makes mistakes. This willingness of hers to forgive when she could chose not to is what finally lets Shiro filly embrace faith, which the concluding scene demonstrates.
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